Gratitude, the Glitch, and Ghats

-Speedrun through Banaras

By Gaurangi Sharma

“City older than History, tradition and legend combined- Mark Twain” 

Engraved to the core of Hindu literary traditions, which describe it to be as old as 10000-5000 years, as well as the conceived mythology, the city of Banaras is something that time itself has experienced with its constant wheel. Archaeological, it is one of the oldest cities in the history of the world and continued civilisation. 

To understand this expanse, one must understand the corroborative culture this place has ingrained in its different names. While there is no geographical division, the three names have their own spirits. Kashi, or the oldest soul is the spiritual land of Light, as per its Sanskrit context, highlighting its holy value for Hindus. Banaras is the cultural soul, which has seen evolution of arts and heritage over different dynasties and rules. Varanasi is the official soul, derived from the combination of two nestled names- Varuna and Assi, the rivers in north and south respectively.

I, personally believe, that places with such personified manifestations call you, you can make ample plans but these can only be executed when the city decides. Same happened with me in the April of 2026, when I got the chance to attend a workshop organised at the Banaras Hindu Vishwavidyalaya, an institution with its own grandeur. It was a short trip, but the range of emotions it brought upon weren’t!

For someone who deeply connects with the Hindu philosophy, specifically Shiv and his embodiments, this place is an eternal abode. We all are aware of the spiritual tenet the city has with the god, being his permanent residence. It is a place where, if you connect, it can give you yourself, a guardian, a fiery light and liberation. These manifestations are not only for the ones who believe in gods and goddesses, but also for the people who genuinely want a place to be with themselves, even though the strong hustle and bustle. Each nook and corner has its own story, and the multitude is not limited to the famous places. You can find a closed temple, barely standing with overgrowth of bushes spurting from the cracks in the tiny lanes of the city. These lanes are also home to some of the most exquisite forms of heritage, history and artistry such as the world famous Banarasi weaving, metal works and food.

The highlight of this place lies in its ghats, a total of 84, traditionally. The most famous ones are Manikarnika, Assi, Dashashwamedh among many others. Attending the Ganga Aarti here is an immaculate experience. While these have been the core to the survival of the city, the levels fluctuating with the monsoon, what has been on the rise is pure humans’ taking for granted and negligence alike! The ghats, which were once home to flora and fauna specific to the region are now filled with plastic, human waste and offerings that are not spiritual but degradation in every sense. The ghats see crowds in thousands of numbers everyday and with each passing day, this region’s condition is becoming deplorable, and the city losing its sense. The reasons are not just limited to mismanaged tourism and increasing population, but majorly the civic sense, that we as the people of India lack. We go there to cleanse ourselves and our sins, and in return contribute to a bigger sin by corrupting the nature and its beauty that has been there for one of the longest periods. While sitting there, taking it all in, this specific condition made my eyes well up.

Through this experience, I try to convey a dual message to all the readers. The city is something you explore on foot, through its lanes, some leading to a new smaller temple and some to ruins. Modern vehicles are apt for longer distances. The second message is to take care of its heritage, consciously! This does not limit to you, but people around you as well, if possible, help others understand what they might be doing wrong and preserve the serenity that this place has in it, so as to when the city lets you explore it, you amalgamate in it!